Don’t judge me just because I like pretty things…
(From the Emilio de la Morena show earlier this week)
We can all be quite judgemental - I suppose it’s an inherent part of human nature.
Despite my best efforts, I am not squeaky clean when it comes to judging others. For me, it is mainly small things like style choices. But occasionally it might be bigger issues, like someone behaving selfishly or hurting mine, or worse, my children’s feelings.But I tend not to judge if I don’t know anything about a particular subject.
On Tuesday I ran into a neighbour and whilst exchanging pleasantries I mentioned that I was excited that it was London Fashion Week this week, and that I was going to a party to celebrate 100 years of Vogue that evening. The neighbour, a man, frowned and said, “Fashion Week? Isn’t that just looking at clothes?
”The short answer is yes. This neighbour and I have very few areas of common interest – so I smiled and let it go – but I knew in that moment he had made a snap judgement of me, and it wasn’t favourable.
The real answer, however, is so much more involved. But how was I going to explain that to someone who has no understanding of an industry or desire to know about that industry?
From a creative idea in a designer’s brain that evolves into a whole collection of clothes – the colour palettes, the sumptuous fabrics, the detail, the embellishments, the way in which the pieces are finished and the incredible workmanship in so many cases - to the story that ties it all together. The artistry, fantasy and range of emotions that a runway show can take you on can be spectacular… and it irks me when fashion gets a bad rap.
My love of fashion has always led to judgement, ever since I was a child. I know some family members felt it was not cerebral enough of a passion and I know I am judged at times on how I dress and the height of the heels – but I don’t care…I have made my own clothes over the years, I have walked through the silk markets in Kolkata choosing fabrics for certain pieces I wanted to make, I seen how silks and cashmere are dyed – I know first hand how labour intensive making a item of clothing is and what a labour of love it can be. Like so many creative industries, there is much more to fashion than meets the eye.
So briefly – the party I went to on Tuesday night was hosted by Alexandra Shulman, Editor in Chief of Vogue and Ruth Chapman, founder of Matchesfashion.com. Many many fashionistas – designers, journalists, bloggers.
I spoke to lots of people and they were all so straightforward and interesting – and as I mentioned on my Instagram there was so little pretentiousness and ego in the room. It was such fun!
What I really want to say to my neighbour when we next meet is never assume what someone is like when you aren’t familiar with a particular area of interest and ....please don't judge me (!!)Without exception, everyone I met at the party was intelligent and insightful, with fascinating perspectives and smart business brains.
In fashion, whether they are a designer or a journalist - they take themes, creative ideas and what the consumer wants and elevate them to aspirational levels.
Fashion is an art form and whilst I am by no means an expert, as a singer/songwriter I see so many parallels. There is no end to possibility and creativity and that’s why I love it.
Coffee with Matchesfashion.com's Ruth Chapman
Ruth Chapman
Ruth Chapman, Joint Founder
Photographer Credit : Ed Reeve
Ruth Chapman's Matchesfashion.com is a global luxury-shopping destination for men and women. It is all about exclusivity, beauty and aspirational fashion.
So it may not surprise you that I pop into their Wimbledon store every now and again, and often take my credit card to task…
Last week, I sat down with Ruth Chapman to talk fashion, motherhood, daily routines and future goals.
The Matchesfashion.com Wimbledon Village store
Ruth Chapman on fashion and her business
Ruth, co-founded the business with her husband Tom. The couple recently stepped down as joint chief executives after 27 years at the helm and are now joint chairmen.
“My love for fashion has always been with me, “ says Ruth, “even from the really early days. The writing was definitely on the wall. When I was at school I used to waitress to save up for dresses I had seen in Vogue.
”Her mother and her stepmother helped fuel the passion, as Ruth says they were both incredibly glamorous women - there was nothing slap dash about them getting ready to go out.
Of the company, Ruth describes her role as the “guardian of brand - Matchesfashion.com”. Nothing happens unless she sees it, likes it and approves it.
Every piece bought for a season goes through a list of lengthy considerations: do we have too many pieces that are similar? Is it relevant to the business brand? Does the design/fabrication/style justify the price point?
But most of all, Ruth and her “strong buying” team keep the customer at the forefront of all decisions. “You can never underestimate the customer’s intelligence,” she comments.
Starting with one shop, Matchesfashion.com now have 14 stores and a significant online presence, which accounts for 85% of the business.
Ruth tells me, “The company has changed a lot over the last 30 years. The British Fashion Council have been around for about 26 years, so I feel we have grown as a business alongside British creativity.
”Ruth feels that right now fashion is a very exciting place to be, “Globally, there is a huge appetite for fashion,” she says. “But when we started that wasn’t the case. I used to think the Italians dressed beautifully, I still do, but that time British people didn’t necessarily.“
“There were a few people who wanted to buy beautiful clothes but they weren’t so smitten with it as they are now, and young people weren’t as fashion obsessed. Now the whole spectrum - from 16 to 75 year old women and men are really interested in feeling current and beautiful. People are much more engaged than they were before.”
Ruth on High Street brands:
I knew the answer to this before I asked it but I asked anyway. Does Ruth Chapman ever buy on the High Street? No - not for herself, but yes for her daughters.
Her standouts on the High Street are
,
,
and
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Zara, she describes as “clever”.
“I do think stores like Uniqlo do commodity basics and denim really well. But I do feel it is a shame when the High Street copies a designer’s ideas.
”She continues, “This is particularly hard for young designers who haven’t made much money and although the design is uniquely theirs, they can’t protect it and that’s infuriating.
”The accessibility of fashion and how quickly the High Street can turn around catwalk looks is incredible, but it is a double-edged sword.
Ruth on Motherhood:
When Ruth talks about her children she smiles. She has poise and elegance in the way she talks about everything, so is not a “gushy” mother. But her love and pride for her three children, 22, 21 and 16, is evident.I ask how being a mother fits with the fashion business – she says, “Fashion is actually an easy industry to have children in. And working for yourself is a luxury. You can tailor your time to suit you and take time out to do what you want to with your children. If I worked in a law firm it would be so much harder.”
Ruth on Routines:
Surprisingly to me, Ruth doesn’t wake up at 4am. I don’t know why I thought she would, but I had visions of being on the phone to Australia and doing Bikram Yoga!
She starts her day at 7am – she favours a calm start to the day. She enjoys making a “delicious” breakfast with alkaline foods; draws a bath and reads the paper. Some days she exercises. She is generally always in the office for 9am.As she says, “I couldn’t think straight without my own time first thing in the morning.”
Ruth on Goals:
Without hesitation, she says, “Well, motherhood is an amazing achievement and one of my goals, though it may sound silly, is to be around to look after my grandchildren. But in truth, I’m not very strategic, I am a very live-in-the-moment person and quite organic.
”She goes on, “I never plan more than five years in advance and I never think I want to be chairman of this, or invest in that. If an opportunity presents itself, of course, we formulate a plan quickly.
”She tells me she would like to continue working, working in fashion and travelling and get involved in more charities. She and her husband currently work with a charity called Access, providing work placements for children from under privileged backgrounds.
There is a lot to Ruth Chapman – she seems to have almost the perfect balance of serenity and focus – something I certainly aspire to. Having been incredibly generous with her time, I came away having had a lovely interlude and am looking forward to seeing her in the New Year to chat about Spring/Summer 2016.
No 23 Welbeck Street, Matchesfashion.com's Private Events and Shopping Townhouse
Fashion, cocktails and canapés
The title of this post pretty much tells you that the event I went to last night was my kinda thing… I was at a Rachel Comey fashion evening hosted by Matchesfashion.com to preview the designer’s PreAW15 collection and Main AW15 collection.
I have been to a few fashion shows, but never something like this. Held at Matchesfashion.com’s Private Shopping and Events townhouse in Central London, the evening was relaxed and chilled with a friendly buzz in the air - the vibe I felt mirroring the designer’s ethos in many ways.
US designer, Rachel Comey attended the University of Vermont as an art major with a focus on sculpture. After college, Comey moved to New York; her first forays into fashion were as costume designer for bands in the growing downtown music scene.Inspired by this, Comey launched her first eponymous collection of menswear. Thanks to a great network and word of mouth, the collection proved a success, and she began to gain a loyal following. By 2004, Comey had introduced womenswear and footwear to her business.
Her collections are known for artful custom textiles and modern silhouettes. This was apparent in the pieces on show last night - tactile fabrics and lovely prints. The styles are unstated. Comey’s designs are contemporary and current - definitely pieces to wear now… All woven garments are made locally in midtown Manhattan while footwear and knitwear is made in Portugal, Spain, and Peru.
Something I loved when I was reading up on Rachel Comey, is that she is widely credited for being the first major American designer to break with longstanding tradition and present her collections in Brooklyn over an intimate dinner party.
The dinners provided an opportunity for Comey to show her collections in a more personal setting, and to create an atmosphere for conversation, unlike the typical runway shows...A quick word about Matchesfashion.com; having lived in southwest London for many years, The Wimbledon Matchesfashion.com store has been my local designer boutique for some time. What I love about the store is that they seem to have perfected a blend of local, warm and welcoming with luxurious high fashion.
This must largely be down to husband and wife owners Tom and Ruth Chapman. Ruth, whom I have met on a few occasions, including last night, is the sort of woman you can’t help but revere. Serene, warm, friendly and very approachable; her savvy and passion for her business are undeniable.
Last night was such fun and I have promised myself that when I get another fashion invitation, I am definitely going. And whilst on the face of it Rachel Comey’s pieces are not quite in keeping with my own personal style…there was a lovely yellow dress (see below!) that I may have to try on at some point….Rachel Comey’s collection can be found at www.matchesfashion.com