Shoes: Pleasure and Pain at the V&A

I have made no secret of my love for shoes. In fact, I can be rather cagey about how many pairs I own, only because I have never dared count them all. I’m not challenging Imelda Marcos or anything, whom I learned yesterday had 1060 pairs of shoes - but I would say my collection for a lowly fashion devotee is pretty impressive.

Anyway, given my affinity for footwear it didn’t take much to convince me to visit the V&A’s exhibition – Shoes: “Pleasure and Pain” and catch up with a friend I met on a Shoe Design Course I did at the London College of Fashion a few years ago.

The exhibition looks at the extremes of footwear from around the world. About 200 pairs of shoes are displayed ranging from an ancient Egyptian sandal decorated in pure gold leaf to the most coveted modern day designs by Christian Louboutin, Sophie Webster and Jimmy Choo to name a few. The exhibition also covers the cultural significance of shoes and looks at the latest developments in footwear technology.

There is a section that looks at shoe production - from mass manufacture to bespoke - and also a 12 minute documentary featuring five designers including Christian Louboutin and Manolo Blahnik, who is hysterically funny when “poo-pooing” the use of computers and mood boards in the design process - well worth a watch – entertaining and illuminating.

In addition to displays on the different processes behind making shoes, there is an upstairs section dedicated to people who collect shoes. Three shoe collectors were invited to select ten pairs of shoes that they thought best illustrated their characters. I loved this section and found it fascinating as I really feel any style choice we make reflects our personalities or a facet of it at least.

I’m not quite sure which ten pairs of my shoe collection I would choose if asked…I am not known for sensible or practical footwear ever…in fact some of my friends think it’s odd that I don’t own a pair of wellingtons – but why would I?Anyway, if you have a free hour or so to peruse some beautiful and unusual things and get a little insight into the creation and manufacturing process of shoes, head off to the V&A. Quite frankly the V&A continues to be a lovely place to while away the hours – so much to see and soak up.

I leave with you a quote which you will see as you enter the exhibition - but if you don’t get there – here it is anyway – “To wear dreams on one's feet is to begin to give a reality to one's dreams.’ – Roger Vivier.

Alexander McQueen – Savage Beauty at the V&A

(Photo taken from a postcard bought at V&A, Look 91, Alexander McQueen - Bugle beads and net)

It was mesmerising and captivating. The music and lighting beautifully balanced to create a slightly hypnotic effect, showcasing the dramatic spectacle that encapsulated the vision of Alexander McQueen.

I don’t how the organisers at the Victoria and Albert museum did it, but somehow they had managed to distil McQueen’s essence into the atmosphere. Or at least that’s how it felt for me.

Sometimes in life when your expectations are high, they are rarely met, or maybe this is the cynic in me. This was not the case yesterday. I was instantly drawn in, marvelling at the collections displayed at the Alexander McQueen - Savage Beauty exhibition.

The exhibition is first and largest retrospective of the late designer’s work to be presented in Europe. It showcases McQueen’s designs from his 1992 MA graduate collection to his unfinished A/W 2010 collection.

One of my favourite collections was VOSS, Spring/Summer 2001, also known as the ‘Asylum’ show. I understand that on the catwalk, it was staged inside a vast two-way mirrored box, which the models couldn’t see out of to start with. Of the show, McQueen said, ‘It was about trying to trap something that wasn’t conventionally beautiful to show that beauty comes from within.’

(photo taken from Alexander McQueen book, bought at V&A - Look from the VOSS collection)

So, the exhibition satisfied my appetite for fashion, but as I lingered at each mannequin and video screen, I flipped between wonder and sadness. Wonder because, to me his blend of drama, theatrics, emotion and couture were perfectly balanced in each piece. Each design showcases his attention to detail, and the mastery with which he created such beauty from the dark, mysterious, unexpected and sometimes the ugly and grotesque. But sadness because a talent like his, is no longer with us.

And whilst the brand, Alexander McQueen is still such a successful powerhouse reaching the masses, I can’t help feeling that the magic has been diluted with his passing, something intangible and really rather special has been lost. What a true artist Alexander McQueen was and his artistry continues to be inspirational.PS: this has been one of the hardest posts to write, to date, I really felt that “wow” and “OMG” weren’t going to cut it. I have been thinking about what to write since yesterday and have been completely waylaid this afternoon by the beautiful Alexander McQueen book I bought in the shop, edited by Claire Wilcox. I’m not sure if I have done the exhibition justice, but I hope so, and if you want to go, let me know, I’m pretty sure I can free up my diary…

(Photo taken from a postcard bought at V&A, Look 45, Alexander McQueen - Silk faille and tuille with boning, with fresh and silk flowers)